For the 3 fasteners with the locating tabs you will have to provide the final toque when the fuel cell is in place and the tabs are rotated into the correct position. Then torque to the manufacturers recommendation 40 in-lbs. We did a two step process 20 in-lbs all around followed by 40 in-lbs. Be very careful not to over torque these bolts as you can easily strip them out ruining the fuel cell in the process. The basics of the install are updating and modifying the surge box to house the new fuel pump and pick up mesh.
Then modifying the fuel feed line to connect the to the pump and outlet of the fuel cell cover plate. You will also need to drill and secure an new pass through for the electrical connector and then terminate it to the engine harness. With the new fuel cell all sorted it is time to get it back into the car. Place it in the cockpit and you will need to position it so that you can get the fuel cell cover plate in the hole of the engine bay bulkhead. Then rotate the three locating tabs into position and torque those bolts to the manufacturers recommendation, 40 in-lbs.
Reconnect all the fuel hoses including the feed, return, vent and filler hose. Good thing you marked the Vent and Return line positions. You did remember to do that right? Pour some fuel into the fuel cell and check for any leaks on the cover plate, hoses or filler neck.
It is a good idea to turn on the ignition and check you are getting fuel pressure before you cover over the fuel cell and reinstall the seat. That way you do not have to remove it all again if there is an issue and you have to pull the fuel cell out. If everything is working reposition the fuel cell cover and reinstall the fasteners. Reinstall the seat and you are ready for the next race weekend.
Big thank you to CSR Performance for all the help with the fuel cell. Thank you for subscribing! All the latest motorsports tips and news from Kanga Motorsports will be in your inbox shortly. We decided to replace the old bent and misshaped suspension rockers with the new lighter and stiffer tubular rockers. The step by step guide should make it easier for those attempting the work themselves. A critical part of any cars suspension is the dampers also known as shock absorbers.
The seals wear out over time requiring a removal, rebuild and re-install. A guide to installing new race car harnesses into the Spec Racer Ford, including how to re-web for different end fittings.
A step by step guide for installing a Butler Built seat in the Spec Racer Ford to improve your feel with the car. Here are our 10 tips for making the most of the Racing Off Season, from rebuilding the racecar to improving your performance for next season.
A common question asked by racers is what radios should I buy for my race car? We talk to Shawn Sampson of Sampson Racing Communications to get the low down on what racers need and why you should go digital. Learn the ins and outs of AN fittings and how to install them on your high performance or race car. What should you look for in video system for your race car? Video systems have advanced in recents years and are now a crucial tool in driver development and training.
Want to make custom vinyls for your racecar? A small upfront investment, a little time and you can improve the look of any car, helmet, tool box or whatever you want. Shop for Racing Fuel Cells. View as: Grid List Items 1 to 36 of 68 total. Page: 1 2. Show 12 24 36 All per page. Add to Cart Add to Compare. Spectra-Lite Replacement Bladder.
Ive seen this on that blue talon with the rx7 wheels and hoosiers that is in the 9s i dont know his name.. I was going to run a summit 10 gallon aluminum fuel cell in the stock fuel tank location, and cut the rear floor and hump out, and install a new aluminum sheet metal floor rivited in It is an aluminum cell, and i dont know if the rules are diffrent or not Phil Proven Member.
There were updates on certain things for '07 so it would be in your best interest to find the newest info out there. I know the blue car you are speaking of. I have also seen aluminum fuel cells mounted above, as in not dropped in the factory location. Not sure if that is a legal set-up though. Unfortunately, that's all I've got as a fuel cell hasn't made its way into my Talon yet.
I'd be interested to know as well. I'm sure some of the guys that run cells will make an appearance here and be able to educate us further. Phil ps--sorry I didn't read your last lines like an a hole Click to expand You can cut a square hole in the floor, and then drop in a can like this: You must be logged in to view this image or video.
I doubt this tin can would clear it, but maybe, we'll see. I would like something that was approved for drag racing any speed really, since I don't know what turbo Im going with yet, but most likely will be shooting for the 9. Something that no tech anywhere would get pissed at me for.
I've been thinking about doing that cage thing and having it basically be a continuation of the main cage of the car. Save the road racing stuff for another thread. I just don't want to get the rules and regulations mixed up. Why not just sump the tank? Slippi84 Proven Member. I too would like to see install pics so I have an idea of how much work it takes to do both options underneath in stock location mounted up or in the trunk area bolted down I too would like to get a 10 gallon tank underneath but every setup I have seen has been open on the bottom including the guy on the home page and they seem to be track leagl cars I just don't want to spend time and money making a setup to only have to do it again.
I have seen quite a few cars at nopi and other events with no firewall on the bottom, and evileagle had the jmf cell, no firewall and he competed in lots of sanctioned events.
As resonably priced as these cans are, it would be much easier to just buy one as apposed to building one: Allstar Performance. Project2G Proven Member. Weight savings. A cell is lighter. Also, sumping the oe tank is only an option for 1g's. This is the only sumped 2g FWD obviously I've seen.
0コメント