Since a lot of vintage guitars are out of reach for us mere mortals, we have been forced to modify our guitars to get close to the mojo of a vintage instrument. Callaham has long been the industry standard when it comes to the recreations of vintage strat bridges. They use top-grade steel for their bridges which make for a great tone. All bridges are hand-checked on imperfections, which means that the chances of getting a faulty bridge are very low. To me, one of the downsides of this bridge is that it has a screw-in whammy bar, but that is to be expected from a true vintage recreation.
This bridge is one of the best aftermarket whammy bar bridges out there, and for good reason. The baseplate only has four screw-holes which are wider than normal screw-holes, which allows them to fit on different screw spacings.
This makes for an easy installation process. The second thing that makes the Vega-Trem unique is its insane tuning stability and comfort. This due to its frictionless performance, which is achieved by creating a fulcrum that pivots on the baseplate. This low friction design allows for very musical playing and tuning stability that rivals that of a Floyd Rose system.
Stay in tune with extreme whammy bar abuse without modifications. Hipshot has been in the aftermarket parts game for a long time. They are well known for their robust machine heads, and bridges. Since there are so many two-point strat bridges out there, one might wonder what sets the Hipshot US Contour apart from the rest.
The US Contour bridge tackles the issue of wear and tear on the knife edges by using only one knife edge on the side of the low E-string and two locator pins where the high E string is.
The locator pins prevent the bridge from moving side to side, which combats wear on the knife-edge from moving side to side, and the knife-edge still works as one would expect. This means that this bridge is less likely to need a replacement after hours of heavy use. The Hipshot US Contour bridge is unlike any tremolo system out there. Hardened steel pivot pins inserted into a machined brass top plate give the US Contour a bell like tonal quality and silky smooth whammy action!
Over the years many players have fallen in love with the classic Floyd Rose system, but getting one of those bridges on your guitar requires a lot of routing and drilling, which is something a lot of us are too afraid to do. As a response to this problem, Floyd Rose created the Rail Tail.
It also allows Strats with a six screw bridge system to get an upgrade without having to fill up the screw holes, which is what you would have to do when installing a Wilkinson unit. The Rail Tail Tremolo is a full-contact, dive-only tremolo designed to retrofit your existing Strat-style 6-point tremolo with no modifications to your guitar. They should be "finger-tight. Telecasters can have two distinctive types of bridges.
The most well-known type is the vintage-style three-section bridge. The other is the modern-day six-section bridge, such as the American Standard Telecaster bridge.
Check your tuning before proceeding with intonation. You can preset the basic intonation of your guitar by taking a tape measure and measuring from the inside of the nut to the center of the 12th fret the fret wire itself; not the fingerboard. Double that measurement to find the scale length of your guitar. For a vintage three-section bridge, a series of adjustments must be made to compensate for the lack of individual string intonation.
Adjust the first bridge saddle to the scale length, measuring from the inside of the nut to the center of the bridge saddle. Now adjust the distance of the second saddle back from the first saddle, using the combination of the gauges of the second and third strings as a measurement. For example , if the second string is. Move the third saddle back from the second saddle, using the gauge of the fifth and sixth strings as a measurement. For the six-section bridge, you will make adjustments for each individual string.
Adjust the first-string bridge saddle to the scale length, measuring from the inside of the nut to the center of the bridge saddle. Now adjust the distance of the second-string saddle back from the first saddle, using the gauge of the second string as a measurement. For example, If the second string is.
Move the third saddle back from the second saddle using the gauge of the third string as a measurement. The fourth-string saddle should be set parallel with the second-string saddle. Proceed with the fifth and sixth saddles with the same method used for strings two and three. Lubricating all of the contact points of a string's travel may be one of the most important elements in ensuring tuning stability and in reducing string breakage.
The main cause of string breakage is moisture collection at the point of contact on the bridge saddle. This can be attributed to the moisture and acidity that transfers from your hands, or it can be a direct effect of humidity in the air. Another factor is metal-to-metal friction and fatigue. Metal components react to each other over time because of their differences and help break down string integrity.
A stronger metal will always attack a softer metal this is why a stainless-steel string will wear a groove or burr in a vintage-style saddle. You'll also find that different string brands break at different points of tension because of the metal makeup and string manufacturing techniques. Since Fender manufactures its own strings, they are designed to perform well for all playing techniques. The oil insulates against moisture and reduces friction and metal fatigue.
String trees are another point of contact and should also be lubricated; a small amount of lip balm applied with a toothpick works well.
Most Fender guitars and basses are equipped with a standard truss rod of which there are in turn two types: one that adjusts at the neck heel and one that adjusts at the headstock; both operate on the same principle. The standard truss rod can counteract concave curvature in a neck that has too much relief, for example, by generating a force in the neck opposite to that caused by excessive string tension.
Fender also uses a unique bi-flex truss rod system on some instruments. Unlike standard truss rods, which can only correct a neck that is too concave under-bowed , the bi-flex truss rod can compensate concave or convex over-bowed curvature by generating a correcting force in either direction as needed. First, check your tuning. Affix a capo at the first fret and depress the sixth string at the last fret.
With a feeler gauge, check the gap between the bottom of the string and the top of the 8th frets see the spec chart below for the proper gap.
Adjustment at headstock Allen wrench : Sight down the edge of the fingerboard from behind the headstock, looking toward the body of the instrument. If the neck is too concave action too high , turn the truss rod nut clockwise to remove excess relief. If the neck is too convex strings too close to the fingerboard , turn the truss rod nut counter-clockwise to allow the string tension to pull more relief into the neck.
Check your tuning, then re-check the gap with the feeler gauge and re-adjust as needed. Hi "Howlin", define "vintage"? You can try lowering the pickups to make them warmer, but then the output also drops. If the guitar has a bright cap, remove it. Otherwise, it'll take a pickup change. Bridge pickup: Low E: 4. Neck Pickup: Low E: 5. David P Bacon.
This measurement is without the string depressed at the last fret , correct? Log in or register to post comments. Good question, and
0コメント